ATTENDING PRODUCERS

Champagne Clandestin was founded in 2016 by the innovative Benoît Doussot, a young Burgundian native. The name “Clandestin,” meaning hidden or secret in French, reflects the unconventional nature of the project—especially in a region like Champagne, known for its deep-rooted traditions. Without prior experience in the region, Benoît sought guidance from Bertrand Gautherot, the renowned winemaker of Vouette & Sorbée, who helped identify key parcels in the Aube that showcase the diverse terroirs of the area, particularly its Kimmeridgian and Portlandian soils.

To express the uniqueness of these terroirs, each cuvée is crafted from a single grape variety and a single vintage. Doussot believes in allowing natural fermentation with indigenous yeasts in seasoned French oak, with minimal intervention, to preserve the true character of each parcel. Whether working with north- or south-facing plots or bottling wines from specific lieux-dits, his approach allows the individuality of each terroir to shine through. All wines are finished without added dosage, further enhancing their purity.

Delphine Boulard is the seventh generation of her family to work the land. In 2009, she co-founded the estate Francis Boulard et Fille with her father, Francis, after the split from the family’s previous domaine, Champagne Raymond Boulard. This division stemmed from differing philosophies on viticulture, leading Francis and his siblings to part ways. The new estate covers three hectares and includes parcels in the Massif Saint-Thierry, Mailly, and some historic family plots in the Vallée de la Marne.

The estate is fully certified organic, with several biodynamic practices also employed. In the cellar, oak barrels are used for fermentation and only the most minimal of interventions practised. Dosage is used sparingly, if at all, to preserve the natural richness of the flavours, which are enhanced by their late harvest picking style.

After nearly 50 years in the vineyards, Francis retired in 2017, with Delphine now fully at the helm of the estate.

Champagne Gounel-Lassalle’s family history dates back to 1870, but it wasn’t until 2018 that the first Champagnes were released under their own label. Arnaud Gounel, the fourth generation of the family, and his wife Sophie Lassalle now manage the estate’s 3 hectares of vines, having chosen to produce their own Champagne rather than remain part of the local co-operative.

Their focus is on showcasing the unique character of their 29 plots in Chigny-les-Roses, with several parcellaire bottlings designed to highlight the intricate nature of the myriad of soils under their feet. The vines are farmed with respect for nature and are in the process of obtaining organic certification. In the cellar, oak is primarily used, and wines aged sous liège (under cork) for secondary fermentation. No dosage is added to any of their cuvées, allowing the complex and detailed expressions of the wines to shine in their purest form.

Didier Vergnon and his son Clément represent the 4th and 5th generations of their 7-hectare family domaine, situated in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Established in 1950, Jean-Louis Vergnon began producing estate-bottled wines in the 1980s, focussing on their best sites in the Côte des Blancs.

Over the past 20 years, the estate has shifted toward organic farming practices, eliminated chaptalisation, and committed to harvesting only fully ripe grapes. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, and the wines are vinified in a mix of steel and oak. For much of this time, renowned winemaker Christophe Constant led the production, with Clément now overseeing the cellars. The resulting wines are quintessential Côte des Blancs Chardonnays—chalky, structured, and crisp, yet with a rich fullness of fruit.

Third generation Jean-Marc Sélèque returned to the family domaine in 2008, after gaining international experience making sparkling wine in the USA and Australia. This blend of New World technical expertise coupled with a greater focus upon ecologically balanced viticulture for the family estate has led to some truly exciting releases from the estate.

The domaine spans nearly 9 hectares, spread across 45 parcels in 7 villages. Majority of the parcels are located in the Coteaux Sud d’ Épernay—a lesser-known, but highly prized, region on the southern slopes of Épernay. In the cellar, Jean-Marc employs a mix of vessels including stainless steel, oak barrels, larger casks, and even some amphorae. Minimal sulphur is used, with extended lees aging sur latte and very limited dosage.

These practices result in a range of vibrant, expressive Champagnes that combine vinous generosity with a distinctive minerality.

Champagne Pertois-Moriset was founded in 1951 through the marriage of Yves Pertois and Janine Moriset, and is located in the prestigious Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Today, the estate is managed by the third generation, Cécile and her husband Vincent. They oversee 35 hectares of vineyards, with around 15 hectares dedicated exclusively to Chardonnay in the Côte des Blancs, and the remainder spread across the Côte de Sézanne, Aube, and Bisseuil.

Cécile and Vincent have introduced a focus on single-village and single-vineyard bottlings, with lower dosage to highlight the pure expression of the terroir. Vinification takes place in a mix of stainless steel and barrel, depending on the specific characteristics of each parcel.

Sustainability is a core principle at the estate. To reduce soil compaction and lower emissions, electric tractors are used in the vineyards. Natural grasses are allowed to grow over the winter and are ploughed under in the summer to promote soil health. Biodiversity is actively encouraged, and minimising chemical inputs remains central to their viticultural approach.

Périne Baillette runs her family domaine based in the relatively low-profile village of Trois-Puits, just seven kilometers south of Reims. The 3.5-hectare estate is farmed organically, including the use of two horses owned by her ex-husband, Alexandre Chartogne of Chartogne-Taillet.

They say wines often reflect their makers, and this is certainly true of Périne. Like the woman herself, her wines are full of personality—expressive, powerful, and vibrant. Oak is used for fermentation, with a preference for larger barrels such as 350L and 450L, with an embrace of its oxidative influence. Dosage is kept minimal to allow the quality of the fruit to shine through.

Périne’s primary focus is on single-parcel bottlings, exemplified by her trio of Cœur de Craie Blanc de Noirs, the singular Blanc de Blancs Mont Ferré, and her small-production Rosé de Saignée. The one exception to her parcellaire approach is Le Village, a cuvée that showcases the character of her home village, Trois-Puits.

Originally founded in 1953, it has really been the third generation, led by David Faivre, that has pushed forth the estate as it is now known today. Since 2017, the estate has operated independently of the local co-operative, marking a shift toward organic viticulture across its 5.5 hectares.

Champagne R. Faivre is located in the Vallée de la Marne, in the village of Belval-sous-Chatillon, situated between Reims and Épernay. While not as well-known as some of its neighbouring villages, the silty clay soils of Belval-sous-Chatillon are ideally suited for growing Meunier, which makes up 80% of the domaine’s vineyards—all of which are located within the village.

Biodiversity and water conservation are key priorities in both their vineyard management and cellar practices. Both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation take place in small tanks, with each vineyard pressed individually to preserve the unique character of the fruit.